Istanbul

We arrive at our hostel late, having had an impromptu tour of the city. Suspiciously, we are all hoarded into the reception to have a jolly welcome chat by the guy in charge who tells us what a great time we are going to have staying in his hostel. Our suspicions are confirmed when we exit the the stairwell on the first floor to where our room is and are met with a stench so pungent it physically knocks your head back. The smell seems to be coming from the showers rather than the toilets though and remains hanging in the hostel throughout our stay. Thankfully, when we close the door to our twin room, the smell seems to dissipate, but when David turns his pillow over the following morning he notices an unwelcome blood stain on it. Talking to the other members of the bus, their experience is equally grim, if not grimmer as the other dorms are small, stuffed with bunk beds and not enough room for bags and back packs. Tiny lockers are available for storing valuables and it seems the sort of place where taking advantage of this facility is highly sensible. Apparently one dorm has 30 beds and the hostel offers 152 beds.
The city is also a full-on experience, but in the most positive way imaginable. After the first visit to the Iranian embassy, a group of us go out to find the bazaar. Whilst David is walking along with Allen chatting to him about his disappointment of the morning they fall behind the group as they are deep in conversation and taking photographs. Before they know it they've detached themselves from the bizarre bazaar group. Helen realises, waits with the group for several minutes whilst at the same time David is asking a policeman for directions, making him think like he is a lost child. With no map and limited directions from the local constabulary Allen and David meander in a vague direction towards the bazaar. On the way they bump into Jim and Debbie who have just been in the bazaar and when they hear that our group has been separated, they wish David and Allen good luck finding everyone again as they try to explain just how big it is in there. In fact, they have understated just how massive it is and both Allen and David are overwhelmed when they arrive and appreciate what a mammoth task they have in finding the other happy shoppers. Walking along one row alone takes several minutes and every few stalls there are other corridors of shops leading off on both sides. Its full of people, colour, sound and many sights to behold. Amazingly though after only walking down the second aisle David spots one of the group and the ten or so of us are repatriated on the shopping trip. The main reason for the haggle fest is to buy dark, loose fitting clothes to cover up the ladies for Iran. There are lots of things tried on both in terms of clothes and stating ridiculous prices, but in the end everyone seems to get what they want including bargain prices. The food in Istanbul is good, reasonably priced and plentiful enough as we try out several different local eating establishments. On the second evening the group have a joint celebration of a couple of consecutive Birthdays – Rick and Jaime. There's a roof top terrace at the hostel and there's singing into the early hours. Despite the celebrations, there's also some sad news in the evening as the wife of the other married couple on the trip, Debbie has decided the trip is no longer for her and Jim has booked her a flight home the following day. Jim was to continue with the group and meet up with Debbie again later in their own personal round the world trip, but the following day, Jim also takes the decision to leave the group and also books a flight home to make alternative travel plans with Debbie. It's a sad time as they've quickly established themselves as good traveling companions and we thank them both individually for their company as they depart separately and we'll miss them.
Our last full day in Istanbul sees us visiting the blue mosque together and then doing separate things. David walks to the other side of the city across the bridge, packed with restaurants and bars underneath and fishermen and vendors on top, including men with scales who charge a small amount of money for the opportunity to publicly weigh yourself. The photo opportunities are plentiful, and the aural spectacular is mesmerising as when David returns back across the bridge he finds himself between two mosques at the time of call to prayer. On his way back to the hostel via the spice market (where amongst other things leeches are on sale) David is often on the verge of being lost but just manages to get back to the hostel to the smell of a different kind, but not as appealing of those being sold by the market traders.
Just before getting back to the hostel David stumbles across a peaceful protest about the threat of burning the Koran. There has been a very high police presence throughout our stay but the placards state “Read Don't Burn” and free English copies of the document are offered to the gathered crowd. It all passes off peacefully whilst David is there and it's a general call for tolerance of all faiths.
Helen's day is spent at the Turkish Baths which is an interesting experience! None of the group have been before and have no idea whats going to happen. The baths are very hot and noisy. The group is directed to all lie down individually on the middle of a very large marble slab and one by one are called forward to get their exfoliation and soapy massage. Its really quite odd to be washed by a complete stranger but Helen thinks everyone 'sort of' enjoyed it. When Helen returns, David asks if she is ok as she has a glazed look over her face. Helen thinks “spaced out” describes the feeling!
In the evening a few of us wander down to the the harbour via the waterfront. The male locals seem to have claimed themselves territories on the rocks to fish, cook and generally pass the time away. There are tea, corn, water and pretzel vendors and it's interesting to see the liberal approach to food hygiene as some of them smoke whilst preparing the fresh food – watch out for those charred bits. At the bridge there are 3 small highly decorated cooking boats with no signs of cigarettes and some of the group enjoy a fresh fish sandwich prior to a few beverages to toast the delights of Turkey's capital.