Esfahan

Esfahan is a bit of a highlight of our trip to Iran. We visit a site of an old polo ground where there are a couple of mosques to visit and a bazaar selling pretty much everything, as bazaars seem to do. Whilst we are sitting on the bridge one evening watching the sunset, we are invited by a couple who have a four year old daughter to go back to their house and spend some time with them – it seems a typical Iranian habit to be so hospitable, but we politely refuse. Sadly, although there is cloud in the sky that helps to make the sunset something special, there is heavy low cloud that means the sun disappears at a pretty crucial moment.
Whilst walking around Esfahan though we see plenty of interesting folk. There are some 'cool' male haircuts, lightened female hair with scarves pulled as far back on the head exposing as much of their dyed hair as absolutely possible together with short sleeves on the female outfits and some pretty close fitted outfits and jeans – a hopeful sign of change. We are also offered playing cards in the streets – something that appears on the banned list as it's associated with gambling. Our guide also gives us a bit of an insight too – alcohol is publicly banned in Iran, but that's not to say that it's not available in private by either illegal purchase or illegal brewing. David is out early on our final morning in Esfahan and stumbles across many people using the public exercise equipment, joggers and even a coordinated exercise class in the park. He also notices that the picnic blankets that were placed on the ground in the evening the night before have become beds for the night for some. There are also sleeping bags on the street and the bridge for those not fortunate enough to have a roof over their heads. On the way back to Tehran looking at those half-built apartment blocks makes us think of those who still live on the streets when the Iranian press talks about how successful the country's economy is, yet criticises the US for the millions in poverty there, which we have also seen first hand there – he who casts the first stone, etc... It's easy to knock the system of a country you're visiting when you see a downside, but nearly all countries have their darker side when it comes to the less well off - particularly western states – but no government in it's right mind promotes the failings in its community structures.